Perfect Puligny-Montrachet Fine Wine Mixed Case
Our Fine Wine mixed case this week represents a great cross-section of styles from the most sought-after village in the Côte d’Or – Puligny-Montrachet.
Whites from the holy trinity of Meursault, Puligny and Chassagne are famous worldwide and global demand invariably outstrips supply, and this is particularly true of Puligny-Montrachet, a village widely considered the best out of the three.
I have often described the stylistic difference between the three communes using a dairy analogy. If Chassagne-Montrachet is satisfying and buttery, and Meursault develops richer, almost cheesy notes with age, Puligny-Montrachet is crème fraîche – at once richly textured yet with a lively, refreshing acidity courtesy of the heavy, water-retaining clay subsoils that lie under its vineyards.
I was recently extolling the virtues of our first pick, Henri Darnat, and his focus on getting his grapes perfectly ripe before picking, especially when in the context of a cooler vintage with excellent natural acidity levels such as 2017. His Puligny does not disappoint, with superb stone fruit, white peach character lifted by the lime-scented acid structure.
Another address we have been working with for many, many years is Domaine Gérard Thomas & Filles. Their plot in Le Trézin, a vineyard right at the top of the Puligny hill and benefitting from a cooler terroir thanks to the relative altitude, delivers such gloriously balanced, elegant wine in the riper 2018 vintage, that it is a dead ringer for 1er Cru at a fraction of the cost.
Finally, after two old favourites, the new kid on the block – we discovered Domaine Sylvain Bzikot last Autumn and after an impressive visit and tasting, decided it very much deserved immediate inclusion in our Burgundy portfolio. Their 2018 Puligny is arguably the rounder, fuller-bodied of this selection, with lovely nectarine fruit, notes of honeysuckle and almond nuttiness on the finish – thoroughly enjoyable.
This mixed case includes two bottles each of; 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin, Domaine Gérard Thomas; 2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Sylvain Bzikot and 2017 Puligny-Montrachet, Henri Darnat
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