'Coto de Imaz' Rioja Reserva, Bodegas El Coto, Rioja 1994
Twenty-eight years on, doing what mature Tempranillo ought: meaty, pruny, savoury pepper-spice notes on the nose, still with subtle hints of black fruit; on the palate sweet red/dark, peppery fruit driven by an impressively juicy acidity and very gentle grippiness. Lingering sultanas, fig and red fruit on an equally impressive, very clean finish. It will be easy to drink a great deal of this wine. We were little surprised to note the Rioja DOC regulatory board officially rating the 1994 vintage Excellent. It was, and its here.