1982 Château Haut-Brion, Premier Grand Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan (Case 8)
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The Haut Brion announces itself straight away with an expressive, perfumed, almost hedonistic nose. This is a wine which seems very 'self-assured' with real presence and almost effortless class. Obviously the colour shows some age, but there is still a deep ruby core in the glass. There is always an impatience to taste/drink these top wines straight away, but one could easily spend half an hour or more just enjoying the nose - so alluring, complex and layered is its profound aroma - especially as it unfurls with time in the glass. Initial notes of spice, leather, roasted meat, cedar and tobacco leaf gradually recede as the red berry and plum fruit emerges.
The palate is supple, luxurious and multi-layered. Red fruit is still very much to the fore - with melting tannins and rich, dark and fleshy in texture. Pure, almost sweet edge to the fruit with lapsang suchong, tapenade and autumn forest notes. This is at an absolutely delicious stage of maturity, but still ludicrously fresh.
Endless finish - an absolute thriller.
- Ben Godfrey, Head Wine Buyer
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